We went to lunch at the Hotel de France, directly across the street from St-Aubin Church, on 13 August 1944 Street.
The owner, Mr. Gilbert Feugueur, who instantly recognized my French accent as that of a French-Canadian, graciously received us. He asked which family we were here to research and visit. We told him the Mabille family from Tourouvre and the Pelletier family from Bresolettes. After seating us at a large corner table at the front of the restaurant, he brought a small crock of rillettes for the table and for each of us a complimentary aperitif, a Normandy specialty, hard cider with cassis (red currant). He also turned on an old portable Victrola and played some very old French (Edith Piaf) and French-Canadian records.
While waiting for our lunch order, our host asked us to sign "Le livre d'or", the golden book (guest book). When I mentioned that my brother Pete and his wife had had lunch here a few years previously, he brought out an older edition of the guest book where we indeed found my brother's note dated March 22, 1995. Mr. Feugueur gave us a photocopy of that entry.
Our lunch consisted of a Perche specialty, "boudin noir", blood sausage or black pudding, pan-fried with apples. We all agreed, except for Christophe, our driver, who passed on the "boudin noir", that it was indeed one of the best "boudin noir" we had ever eaten.
Foreground: a plate of "boudin noir" with a bottle of Calvados
Background: a bottle of Normandy cider and apples next to a pyramid of "boudin noir"
After desert, our host gave us a complimentary digestif, another Normandy specialty, Calvados, the strong apple liquor.
When asked why the main street in Tourouvre was named the "13 August 1944 Street", Mr. Feugueur gave the following explanation:
On August 13, 1944, a little over 2 months after D-Day, a major Allied offensive in Normandy was taking place. A German SS unit came through Tourouvre in retreat. A German sentry was found shot dead at the train station, a victim of the previous day's RAF strafing raid on the railway facility. The lieutenant commanding the SS unit had 18 civilians summarily executed on the Town Square. 35 other civilians were taken to a nearby field, presumably to suffer the same fate. Negotiations averted further bloodshed. The SS unit, however, set fire to 54 homes in the center of Tourouvre, firing upon anyone trying to save their home or belongings. The fires raged on for almost 10 days. Below is an old photograph showing the destruction the fires wreaked at the time. In memory of the events of that day, the town dedicated its main street to all those who suffered and perished on that fateful day.
Part of Tourouvre after the fire set by SS troops - August 1944
